Winter is coming, bringing with it pale skies, misty mornings, and softened light. Sometimes we think the sun is hiding, hibernating. And yet… Like an unseen underground river, its rays continue to flow, invisible but powerful. The question often arises: should we still apply SPF when the days are getting shorter and the warmth is disappearing? The answer, far from being a simple "yes" or "no," is a journey through science, prevention, tradition, and promising new approaches.
WINTER LIGHT: GENTLE ON THE SURFACE, POWERFUL UNDERLYING
The air is colder, the sky grayer, and yet UVA rays continue to penetrate clouds and windows. Unlike UVB rays, which cause sunburn, UVA rays are constant year-round. They penetrate deep into the skin, accelerating skin aging and contributing to the risk of skin cancer.
Snow and altitude are two silent amplifiers: snow can reflect up to 80% of UV rays, and every 1,000 meters of altitude increases UV intensity by approximately 10 to 12%. Even at -5°C, a face exposed in the mountains therefore receives a significant dose of invisible rays.
What science says today:
- The WHO (World Health Organization) reminds us that UVA rays pass through clouds and windows and are involved in skin aging and certain skin cancers.
- The French Society of Dermatology (SFD) recommends the use of an appropriate SPF even in winter, particularly in the mountains or in case of prolonged exposure.
SPF, A SKINCARE RITUAL THAT EXTENDS WELL BEYOND SUMMER
One might think that applying sunscreen in winter is overzealous. In reality, it's a subtle strategy: preserving what dermatologists call "sun capital," the limited reserve of exposure that each skin type possesses. Every micro-dose of accumulated UV radiation counts in the history of our epidermis.
Research conducted over several decades has proven it: regular application of SPF does more than just prevent sunburn. It reduces the appearance of dark spots, slows the development of wrinkles, maintains a more even skin texture, and helps limit the risk of skin cancer. Even a moderate SPF, applied consistently, makes a visible difference after a few years.
A GENTLE REVOLUTION: PROTECTING SKIN FROM WITHIN
In recent years, a new avenue has emerged: oral photoprotection. Fascinating because it is not applied to the skin, it acts from within. Polypodium leucotomos, a fern native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, is attracting particular attention from researchers.
This plant contains molecules capable of neutralizing free radicals triggered by UV rays, limiting inflammatory reactions, and even protecting collagen and elastin fibers. Studies suggest it reduces the appearance of age spots, helps prevent photoaging, and supports skin's tolerance to the sun. A kind of invisible shield.
But be warned, the science is clear. These supplements do not replace SPF applied to the skin. They reinforce the process, like an extra string to the bow of prevention. An internal step that complements the external one of topical protection.
CHINESE MEDICINE: PROTECTING YOUR SKIN IS NOURISHING YOUR VITAL ENERGY
While modern dermatology speaks of photons, oxidation, and DNA, traditional Chinese medicine offers a poetic and holistic interpretation of winter. This season is associated with the Kidney, considered the root of our vitality. It is said to store Jing , the Essence, our most precious energy reserve.
Protecting your skin in winter, from this perspective, is like protecting your inner treasure. The cold weakens the Yang energy, the lack of light tires the mind, and it is recommended to nourish your deep energy with simple actions: covering your back and lower back, favoring gentle movements like Qi Gong or yoga, and consuming warming foods such as soups, root vegetables, and whole grains. The skin is not isolated from the rest of the body: it reflects our overall balance.
Topical or oral SPF? Two complementary routes
It would be simplistic to oppose traditional sunscreen and newer oral sun protection approaches. The former acts on the surface, blocking or absorbing rays before they reach cells. The latter acts deeper, limiting oxidative damage after exposure has occurred.
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ZEHNIA'S TIP: MAKE WINTER A SEASON OF CARE
Winter is an invitation to slow down. But slowing down doesn't mean neglecting yourself. On the contrary, it's perhaps the season where prevention matters most: applying SPF even on grey days, protecting your skin from the sun in the mountains, supporting your skin with a diet rich in antioxidants, considering new approaches like Polypodium leucotomos, and above all, listening to your body.
Each repeated gesture becomes a ritual, and each ritual becomes a declaration of self-love. Protecting your skin in winter isn't about fearing the sun; it's about honoring your own light.
At Zehnia, we believe that applying SPF in winter is not a chore, but a skincare ritual. A simple gesture that tells your body: "I'm looking after you, even when the sun is shy."